What Colour do Onion Skins Make? Viking Era Natural Dyes

What Colour do Onion Skins Make? Viking Era Natural Dyes

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I recently participated in a natural dyes workshop, put on by Fjellborg, the Viking group I have joined in Denver. It was so much fun and I learned masses.

All the linen and wool which we wanted to dye had to first be mordanted to open up the fibres so that it would hold the dye better. This means that it was left to soak overnight in a solution of either water and iron, or water and alum. The iron mordant tends to give a browner, earthier colour, and the alum mordant usually gives a brighter or pinker colour. I say ‘tends to’ and ‘usually’ because as you will see, natural dyes can be unpredictable!

We had six dye baths going: walnut, nettle, madder, onion skins, weld and cochineal.

Walnut

The part of the walnut which makes the dye is the outer husk, rather than the inner shell of the nut. This one was started the night before because it needs time to thicken. Walnut gives various shades of brown.

Nettle

Nettle usually gives a soft, muted green. We used dried nettle because the nettle problem which previously supplied fresh nettles had been solved. It turns out that dried nettles do not work at all. This was an abject failure!

Madder

Madder is a dried root, which is weighed dry and then ground up with water to make a paste. This is then diluted with the desired amount of water and simmered for about an hour. Madder usually produces various reddish, pinkish or orangeish colours.

Our madder dye bath produced one of the surprises of the day – my linen hood. It had been in the iron mordant all night, and I was hoping for a nice muted orange colour. After about 20 minutes in the dye, the linen had barely changed colour. It didn’t look like it was taking up any dye at all. So I left it in a bit longer, checking it every so often. When it eventually started to show evidence of colour change it had been in for nearly an hour. At that point I decided to give up and take it out. When I rinsed it out, lo and behold, it was PURPLE! We were (and still are) all gobsmacked. As it dried it faded to a lilac. So I now have an accidentally lilac hood!

Onion skins

We used yellow onion skins, which give various yellow and brown colours. They took an hour or so to cook down, and I was impressed by how much colour came out. I dyed one of my skeins of yarn and a linen piece, both with an alum mordant, in the onion skins. The wool had about 6 minutes, and the linen had about 30. It was fascinating to see how much better the wool took the dye compared to the linen. They both came out a lovely yellow colour, the wool a bit more vibrant than the linen.

Weld

Weld is a wildflower which grows in the UK and Scandinavia. It is banned in Colorado as a ‘noxious weed’, so we used dried. Like the madder and onion skins, Weld needs to be simmered for about an hour. I did my other skein of yarn and second linen piece in this one, both with an iron mordant. The wool had about ten minutes and the linen had about 20. Both came out a muted green, with the wool being darker than the linen. The Weld produced another surprise for the day: both wool and linen with an alum mordant came out nearly neon yellow! The linen was particularly bright.

Cochineal

Cochineal are bugs, which produce a red dye when dried. The Vikings would have found theirs in Poland, but ours came from Peru. The items with alum mordant came out varying shades of pink, and the iron mordants produced darker purpley colours.

Wool, linen and yarn in the alum salt bath. Photo credit: C. Carr.
Wool, linen and yarn in the iron sulfate bath. Photo credit: C. Carr.
Dye pots on the stove. Clockwise from bottom: walnut, onion skins, nettle and madder.
The Nettle Swamp Monster!
Wool yarn coming out of the walnut dye.
The cochineal dye bath.
Linen, top to bottom: onion skins, weld and the surprise purple madder hood!
Wool and linen done in onion skins with an alum mordant. The colour of the linen is more accurate in the photo above this one.
Wool and linen done in weld with an iron mordant.
Our resident expert made samples of all the different possibilities in wool. Each group of three is the same dyebath, with, top to bottom in each group: no mordant, alum and iron. The dyebaths, top to bottom, are: nettle, walnut, madder, onion skins, cochineal and weld.
Linen samples, all with alum mordant. Clockwise from bottom right: walnut, onion skins, cochineal, madder and the bright yellow weld. Photo credit: C. Carr.
We even dyed the spoons!
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