1855 Ball Gown, Part 3 – Finishing – Simplicity 1728

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Read part 1 and part 2.

Once I had made the bodice and skirt, I tried them both on together and discovered a problem. As soon as I started to move, the bodice popped out of the skirt. I puzzled over how to fix this for a while, and then my mother came up with the most amazingly simple solution: use skirt hooks to hook the waistband of the skirt onto the bottom of the bodice. It worked like a charm. I used six large skirt hooks at the side, side-front and side-back, and everything stayed put. Next time I make this I will add 2 inches to the bodice!

The finishing touch was some vintage trim of tiny copper-toned metal beads, which give just the right amount of sparkle to highlight the shape of the bertha and sleeves.

The Victorian petticoats give just enough poof to the skirt to achieve the bell-shaped silhouette, and when I wore this to the San Diego Viennese Ball, it moved beautifully and was much more comfortable than a hoop skirt.

I am delighted with how this dress turned out, and I plan to use it for the basis of my Sophronia cosplay (The Finishing School Series, by Gail Carriger).

Pattern number

Simplicity 1728

Description

Bodice and skirt with sleeve options and separate bow and collar.

Difficulty

Intermediate – You are happy wearing the things you make. You can put in a zip and do buttonholes. You have used more fussy fabric such as satin or floppy/silky fabrics.

Fabric and Trim

Main: blue cotton percale

Overlay: aubergine chiffon

Lining: black bemberg

Interlining: duck canvas

Trim: vintage copper-coloured metal beads

Instructions

Very easy to follow, clearly laid out

Alterations

The underskirt is the main skirt piece cut four times and gathered onto the waistband. The overskirt is one long 6.5 yard piece. The bodice is heavily altered for the 1855 look: shortened at waistline, flattened waistline shape, redrew neckline, drafted bertha, made sleeves smaller, drafted petal over-sleeve.

Conclusions

I highly recommend this pattern for those who want to make an early- to mid- Victorian ball gown, but who are intimidated by all the historical patterns, which tend to be more advanced. This one will give you the right silhouette with minimal stress over complicated construction details. If you don’t want to draft a bertha, simply adding lace to the neckline gives the right effect.

I also used this pattern for my 1860s ball gown.

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