1855 Ball Gown, Part 1 – Bodice – Simplicity 1728

1855 Ball Gown, Part 1 – Bodice – Simplicity 1728

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For my 1855 ball gown I chose a royal blue cotton percale with an aubergine chiffon for the overlay, which turned out to have the most wonderful iridescent, colour-shifting effect.

I used the same base pattern as my 1860s ball gown: Simplicity 1728. I shortened the bodice, flattening out the point to make it even all around and designed an entirely new bertha. This one is a bow shape, the same front and back, and is sewn into the neckline. Since it is attached all the way around, I needed to change the back closure. I ended up sewing the top two inches of the back seam, and inserting an invisible zipper upside-down, so that it zips closed from top to bottom. The zipper pull is then hidden at the waist.

I did small puff sleeves in the chiffon and drafted a petal-shaped cap sleeve to go over the top. The chiffon under-sleeves sagged a bit, so I gathered some net into the top of the shoulder to add some oomph.

Parts 2 and 3 are coming soon!

Muslin front
Muslin back
Cutting out the chiffon overlay
All the layers basted together
The chiffon undersleeve
The completed bodice
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