Steampunk Bugs Dress – Butterick 5209 in Cotton Poplin

Steampunk Bugs Dress – Butterick 5209 in Cotton Poplin

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For this sundress I used Butterick 5209, view B, with a fairly major alteration.  I’d found a lovely burgundy cotton to do a contrast midriff, however the midriff section on the pattern does not go evenly around to the back. So I split the lower back piece into two: a top and a bottom. I then pieced those two together with my contrast fabric on the bottom to recreate the full pattern piece.

The main fabric is a lovely steampunk bugs print from 42 Custom Fabric. I chose this pattern for it because it has large pieces which will show off the print.

The pattern is relatively easy and goes together well. It has some really lovely style elements; along with the deep V neck and inverted V midriff section, there is a charming little notch in the center back of the neckline. I love these little details in vintage and vintage-inspired patterns!

Even though this is technically a sundress, the first time I wore it was to my company Christmas party! It fitted in surprisingly well. I’ve also subsequently worn it for a quarantine virtual dance performance, among other things. It is a very comfy dress, but is not the best for dancing because the sleeve style restricts arm movement.

Original lower back pattern piece, and my altered version.
The two sections of my altered lower back pattern piece.
Piecing the lower back piece.
Finished dress front. This was when I was doing pictures for the Diamond Dolls Oop Shoop virtual performance.
Finished dress back. This was when I was doing pictures for the Diamond Dolls Oop Shoop virtual performance.
Back detail. you can see that the midriff now goes all the way around, and the notch in the center back of the neckline.

Pattern Number

Butterick 5209, view B

Description

1947 repro dress with two sleeve/back options.

Difficulty

Intermediate – You are happy wearing the things you make. You can put in a zip and do buttonholes. You have used more fussy fabric such as satin, faux fur, or floppy/silky fabrics.

Fabric and Trim

Main: Cotton poplin by 42 Custom Fabric

Contrast: Cotton broadcloth

Lining: Cotton broadcloth

Instructions

This is a very straightforward pattern and goes together well. The center back neckline notch was probably the most complicated bit.

Alterations

Since I wanted my contrast midriff to go all the way around to the back, I split the back midriff piece into two, and pieced it back together with the contrast on the bottom half. I also added pockets.

Conclusions

I will definitely make this again. It is very comfy and flattering. I may think about ways to make it more dance-friendly.

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