1860s Ball Gown – Simplicity 1728 with Self-Drafted Bertha
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This is my first foray into the world of hoop skirts: an 1860s ball gown for Viennese Nights in San Diego, 2016. I learned that you have to walk differently (slow and smooth), sit differently (between the hoops) and that if your hoop skirt is even slightly too long, it is nigh on impossible to dance in. I subsequently shortened the skirt and then the hoop.
I used Simplicity 1728, which is a solid base from which to start, despite being a fantasy pattern. The pattern was easy to construct and I lined the bodice with duck canvas to give it body and structure (I am not wearing a corset underneath. I know, shame on me. I will do Victorian undergarments at some point).
I made the skirt as per the pattern, but heavily modified the bodice. I made the sleeves smaller, scooped the back neckline and drafted a bertha to go on top. The bertha was a case of trial and error in white cotton. Looking back, I would have done better to drape it or to use the bodice neckline as a starting point. (I did the latter the next time I used this pattern). The bertha is completely detachable so I can undo the back to put the bodice on. The back closure is a very historically accurate zip.
The main fabric is a pale teal polyester clearance find which looks a lot like silk. The black trim is mostly flexi-lace hem tape, grosgrain ribbon and Chantilly lace, with a few other remnants of lace and velvet on the bertha. The inspiration for the zigzag trim came from a fashion plate and a petticoat!
Pattern number
Simplicity 1728
Description
Bodice and skirt with sleeve options and separate bow and collar.
Difficulty
Intermediate – You are happy wearing the things you make. You can put in a zip and do buttonholes. You have used more fussy fabric such as satin or floppy/silky fabrics.
Fabric and Trim
Main: polyester faux silk
Lining: duck canvas
Trim: velvet, Chantilly lace, flexi-lace hem tape, grosgrain ribbon
Instructions
Very easy to follow, clearly laid out
Alterations
The skirt is straight out of the envelope. The bodice is heavily altered for the 1860s look: redrew neckline, drafted separate bertha, made sleeves smaller.
Conclusions
I highly recommend this pattern for those who want to make a Victorian ball gown, but who are intimidated by all the historical patterns, which tend to be more advanced. This one will give you the right silhouette with minimal stress over complicated construction details. If you don’t want to draft a bertha, simply adding lace to the neckline gives the right effect.
I also used this pattern for my 1855 ball gown.
