14th Century Cotehardie – Drafting the Pattern
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For the Las Vegas Renaissance Faire last year, I decided that I wanted an outfit in keeping with the group I was camping with: a 13th century mercenary company. So I went for a late 13th century/early 14th century, lower upper-class English lady fallen on hard times, travelling with her husband, a former knight turned mercenary. This would not have been unheard-of at that time, since the plague had just swept through most of England wiping out a huge swath of the population. The sudden lack of labour meant that many manors no longer had staff and farms were no longer being worked. This translated into lack of income for the lords and ladies who then had to find other means of survival.
This is the very first time I have attempted drafting a full garment pattern from a tiny drawing. It was a surprisingly rewarding process! I used the drawings in The Evolution of Fashion by Margot Hamilton Hill and Peter A Bucknell, and started by marking perpendicular lines for bust, waist, torso length and so on. Then I drew in the curves to join up the points and make the general bodice shape, before adding the seam allowance all around. I drew it straight onto cheap cotton fabric, so I could sew it into a mockup. It took several fittings, pinning it onto myself, and consulting a friend in California via photo-in-text-message, to get it right.
The sleeves were complicated as well, since they are very fitted, extend down over the hand, and button right up to the elbow. The split for the buttons is on the opposite side of the sleeve to the seam, which makes for a very oddly shaped pattern piece! This was particularly difficult to fit on myself.
Once I had the bodice and sleeves drafted, I laid the patterns on my lining fabric and drew out the skirt directly on the fabric. This was partly because I didn’t have enough cotton to make the full skirt pattern, and partly because I really didn’t need to. I then used my lining pieces as the pattern for the outer fabric. I also added side-seam pockets. They are not historically accurate, but no-one will see them!
Next week, read Part 2: Dyeing the Fabric!
Wow, this is impressive! I can’t begin to think of how to make such a thing so I love to see how you do it. I look forward to seeing the finished product!
Wow, that is amazing making your own outfit for Ren faire. I absolutely love going and dressing up, but I couldn’t imagine making my own outfit for it. I am very impressed. I love crafting, but sewing has never been something I have caught onto sadly. Maybe one day. I will definitely need to look and see your finished product.