Retro 1952 Dress – Butterick 6018 in Red Taffeta
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I’d had my eye on this pattern for some time and just needed an excuse to make it. Cue 1940s Winter Ball and this year’s company holiday party!
The pattern is Butterick Retro 6018, view B, and I used a lovely red taffeta from Colorado Fabrics. It is woven bright red one direction, and black the other, resulting in a burgundy which shifts and changes as you move it.
Since I was planning to dance in this, and it has short sleeves, I needed to alter the pattern so that I would be able to raise my arms. I had no idea how to do this, so I asked my mother! It turns out that to increase range of motion, the bottom of the armhole has to be raised up into the armpit as far as is comfortable. Then, of course, it has to be raised the corresponding amount on the sleeve piece. I made a muslin of the bodice, and tried raising the armhole one inch and two inches, and decided that one inch was enough to give movement and still be comfy. I also added a pocket, and used an invisible zip instead of a regular one. No other alterations were needed, apart from my usual grading between sizes.
This is not an easy pattern, primarily due to the shaped neckline. The sweetheart shaping at the front of the neckline and the slight collar at the back of the neckline both require careful pinning, clipping, and very slow stitching. I handstitched the very center of the sweetheart shaping. I am so glad that I made the muslin, because I actually sewed the back of the neckline together entirely wrong the first time!
I was doubtful about using 5/8 inch buttons. I thought they would be too big. But I am very glad that I went with the instructions, because they are actually just right. Also, the larger buttons are so much easier to cover than the tiny ones!
I absolutely love this dress, and I would absolutely make this pattern again. The only thing I would do differently is to line the bodice instead of doing facings. Facings invariably like to pop out or rumple at the most inopportune times.
This dress is very comfy. The neckline allows for most bra styles and it can be worn with or without a petticoat underneath – in the pictures below I do have a petticoat. I wore this to the Denver 1940s Winter Ball (at which I got barely any pictures) and to my company’s holiday party (at which I made SURE to get photos!).
I also made a hair clip of Dior roses in the red taffeta, using this tutorial. They are deceptively simple and very effective! And no outfit would be complete without a matching stole. I used a free pattern by VeraVenus. Look for a post about that soon!
Pattern Number
Butterick 6018, View B
Description
Retro 1952 dress with choice of neckline and sleeve
Difficulty
High Intermediate – You’ve made some complicated things and haven’t thrown them across the room in the process. You have done a shaped neckline or other shaped seam. You are happy taking the top of one pattern and the bottom of another, and adding the sleeves from a third pattern to make a dress.
Fabric and Trim
Main: Red Taffeta
Trim: Self-covered buttons
Instructions
Clear, but read carefully. There are some complicated bits, notably the shaping at the front and back of the neckline. I recommend making a muslin of the bodice.
Alterations
Raised the armhole by one inch, added a pocket.
Conclusions
I am so happy with this dress. It went together well, the pattern was easy to alter and it is very comfy to wear. I highly recommend it and I plan to make more!
